EXOTIC PETS :: DEGU

The Degu (Octodon degus; pronounced DAY-goo) is a small caviomorph rodent that is native to Chile. It is sometimes referred to as the Brush-Tailed Rat (although not closely related to the rat family) and is also called the Common Degu, to distinguish it from the other members of the genus Octodon. Other members are also called degus, but they are distinguished by additional names. The name "degu" on its own, however, indicates either the genus Octodon or, more usually, O. degus. Degus are closely related to the chinchilla and guinea pig, also placed in parvorder Caviomorpha.

Expected Life Span

5-8 years is typical, although up to 10 is possible.

Size

Body is about 5-7 inches long; the tail is another 5-6 inches.

Behavior

Degus are very social animals and can become very tame if handled from an early age. However, they do best if kept with other degus because of their social nature. They are playful and curious. Without social interaction and opportunity for exercise, they can be aggressive and neurotic. Degus are diurnal (active during the day). In the wild they live in communities (much like prairie dogs) and dig an elaborate system of burrows to live in.

Cage

Degus need a large cage. For a couple of degus a minimum of 24 inches by 18 inches by 24 inches tall is about the minimum size. Larger is definitely better and large multilevel cages such as those made for ferrets or chinchillas are ideal. The cage should be made of wire since degus are avid chewers. However, the cage must have a solid (not wire) floor and shelves and ledges should also be made of a solid surface since degus are prone to foot problems.

Bedding and Nest Box

As with other small animals, avoid cedar or pine shavings. Provide an absorbent layer of pet-safe bedding in the bottom of the cage. A nest box is necessary to give degus a sense of security - a wooden box about 6 by 8 by 6 inches is appropriate and if it has a flat roof the degus can use it as a shelf to sit on. Nesting material (tissues or paper towel, hay, shredded paper) should also be provided.

Other Cage Furnishings

Degus should have a solid surface exercise wheel (11 inches is a good size) in their cage. Thick branches can be added to the cage and will offer both exercise (climbing) and chewing opportunities. Thick cotton ropes can also be used for climbing toys. Using heavy ceramic dishes is a good idea (chew proof), and a water bottle with a sipper tube can be used for water. You may need to get a chew guard for the water bottle.

Dust Bath

Like chinchillas, degus need regular dust baths to keep their skin and coat in good condition. Provide a shallow bowl with an inch or two of chinchilla bath dust (sand) a couple of times a week (leave in the cage for a half hour or so).

Chew Toys

Since degus are such determined chewers, it is vital to provide them with lots of opportunities to chew. A variety of wood blocks and chews as well as branches can be provided. Willow balls and toys made for rabbits are great for degus, and cotton rope and wood toys designed for large parrots are also a good choice. A mineral or salt block designed for rodents can be attached to the cage.

Feeding

The basis of a good degu diet is a combination of high quality chinchilla or guinea pig pellets, and rodent blocks. Grass hay (such as timothy hay) should be available all the time (you can get small hay racks to make this easier), and a small amount of alfalfa hay can also be offered. A variety of fresh vegetables can be given, especially sweet potato (peeled, uncooked), carrots, broccoli, leafy greens, green beans, and dandelion leaves (must be pesticide-free). These should be offered in small quantities only or they may cause diarrhea. Vegetables that are members of the cabbage family (cabbage, broccoli, brussel sprouts, kale) should be fed only in very small quantities and some degu experts advise avoiding them altogether.

Degus are prone to diabetes and are designed to eat a diet high in roughage and low in carbohydrates. Do not let your degus get overweight or obese, and keep sugary foods to a minimum. Fruit should be avoided as a treat (including raisins) due to their high sugar content. For treats, most degus relish seeds (e.g. sunflower seeds), peanuts, and whole nuts in the shell. However, these should only be an occasional treat, due to the high fat content. Make sure you change the water in their bottles regularly - they often do not drink a lot but it is important that they have a supply of fresh clean water available at all times.

Important Note about Degu Tails

Never grab or try to pick up a degu by the tail. They can easily lose part of their tail and have a messy injury as a result. Shedding their tail is probably a natural defense of wild degus to escape if caught by the tail.

How Can I Tell If My Degus Are Playing or Fighting?

My degus sometimes nip at each others tails and chase each other around. Is this serious fighting, or are they just playing? They still sleep together and otherwise seem to get along. Degus, like many other rodents are quite social and do often engage in play fighting. They may also have disagreements that could be classed as minor squabbles or battles over dominance. However, sometimes degus just do not get along and will have serious fights that require separating the degus.

It sounds like the degus in the question here are just playing, especially if neither is getting injured in these "battles." Usually serious fighting is pretty hard to mistake for play, both by its intensity and the fact that serious fighting often results in injuries. Here are some guidelines for determining whether fighting is play, a minor issue, or a serious problem that requires intervention.

Play Fighting

Degus will often engage in play behavior which may involve a degree of play fighting: boxing, chasing, and nipping. They will often chatter at each other as well. This sort of activity is often mutual -- the degus will take turns chasing each other, for example. Injuries are rarely seen as a result of play fighting, and the degus involved usually get along the rest of the time, sharing food and toys and cuddling together to sleep.

Minor Squabbles

Sometimes, degus will have minor squabble over a treasured resource. This could be food, special treats, favorite toys, etc. These disagreements are usually quite minor, but if you think your degus are having these sorts of squabbles too often, you can try adding additional food dishes and toys, or perhaps a bigger cage. As with play fighting, the involved degus usually get along well the rest of time and snuggle together when sleeping.

Dominance Struggles

Degus need to establish a social structure (dominance hierarchy) so must determine who will be "top degu" (alpha degu). This is often established fairly easily, but when degus are quite evenly matched for age, size, and strength, it may be more of a struggle and more fighting may be seen. This fighting may be a bit more intense than play fighting, and may involve some growling, grunting, tail thumping and kicking, especially with evenly matched degus. However, even in this case, the battle is usually settled before serious fighting or injuries occur (though the occasional small scratch or scrape may occur). Dominance behavior can also involve the more dominant degu mounting the other. Once dominance struggles are settled, the degus usually calm down and go back to getting along, playing and sleeping together. Struggles over dominance may start out as minor squabbles, but progress to more serious fighting, so monitor the situation if fights seem to escalate in frequency or intensity.

Serious Fighting

Serious fighting usually starts out with threatening grunts or growls and tail thumping, and progressed to wrestling, biting, and kicking at each other. The degus may roll together in a ball and really bite at one another, especially around the head and neck. Usually, the vocalizations and biting are much more intense than with any kind of play fighting or minor squabbling. If your degus are fighting like this or really injuring one another, intervention is necessary.

Separating Fighting Degus

Leather gloves are recommended to prevent getting bitten yourself. Throw a towel over the degus to distract them and make separating them easier, then use your gloved hands to remove one the offending degus. Place the degus in separate cages, at least temporarily.

Degus that have fought this seriously may never get along, so it may be best to simply house them in separate cages. Some owners will try to re-introduce degus that have had a serious fight. This involves having two cages, and swapping the degus back and forth between the cages to get them used to each other's scent and decrease the territorial instincts involved. However, if two such degus are re-introduced, you must be prepared to watch them carefully and separate them again if they go back to fighting. If they fight a second time, it is best to separate them permanently.