EXOTIC PETS :: FERRETS

Keeping Ferrets as Pets

Ferrets in the United States today are usually raised for personal pets; however, this is not the historical use of this lively and curious creature. Domesticated more than 2,000 years ago from the European polecat, the common ferret has been used for hunting rabbits in Britain for centuries. This small creature is still used today for hunting and showing and, to a lesser extent, for fur ranching, as they are far more docile then their relative the mink. The most common use for today's ferret, however, is as a domestic pet.

Ferrets have a reputation of unpredictability; however, this is often unwarranted, and they make wonderful companions when properly raised and handled.

Housing

• Any secure cage with a mesh size of approximately 1" X 2" (maximum) for adult ferrets.
• Floor Size: 3ft X 2ft X 2ft is adequate, but more is better.
• Nest or Hiding area of 25 percent of the cage.
• Larger exercise area available.
• Emphasis should be placed on secure construction as ferrets are resourceful.
• Acceptable bedding types: straw or wood shavings.
• Ferrets may be housed in groups if the cage is of adequate size. They get along very well, especially when all parties are reproductively fixed.

Feed

Ferrets are true carnivores and can eat any high quality cat food. It should have 30 percent protein and a high percent fat(about 30 percent) content. Commercial ferret diets are available, but unless raised on that diet from weaning, most ferrets will not eat them.

Handling

When handled often, ferrets are very tame and easily picked up. Support the body completely as you lift them or they will squirm. Do not drop ferrets; as with any animal, they can be injured by the fall.

Young ferrets may try to nip you. If this is the case, wear gloves when handling them and do not pull away when they nip. If you do, then they have learned how to keep you from doing what you want and will continue to bite. A few days of gloved hands will protect your fingers and quickly teach your ferret not to bite, as it does it no good.

Choosing a ferret

When choosing a ferret for a pet, you should always analyze the animal's personality and health. You should look for a ferret that is friendly and does not seem to be to nervous around people. Understand that this animal has never seen you before and will understandably be a bit concerned by your presence until it gets used to your smell.

The ferret that you pick should also appear healthy. It should be bright-eyed and alert. There should not be patches of missing skin or fur on its body. The animal should breath easily with no nasal discharge. You should always buy from a reputable retailer or breeder. The person selling the animal should be able to tell you its past health history, as well as the history of the animals living with and around it. He or she should also be willing to guarantee that it is healthy. If you plan to breed your ferrets, you should also ask about genetic defects in parents or litter-mates, as well as being sure that the male and female that you have picked out are not related. You should also check to see if your chosen ferret has been fixed. Most pet ferrets for sale today have been fixed, as female ferrets will die if not bred once they come into heat. Unfixed male ferrets have a strong odor upon reaching sexual maturity.

Reproduction

Female ferrets will not go out of estrus until bred, and depleted bone marrow will result from the prolonged bleeding. This will eventually kill the jill (female ferret). For this reason, all pet female ferrets not used for breeding should be spayed as at six to eight months of age. Most of these surgeries are completed before the sale of female ferrets to prevent future problems.

Young are born underdeveloped and are nearly impossible to hand raise prior to one week old. Disturbances during this initial week may cause cannibalism in some jills.

Common diseases

Canine Distemper (CD)

Ferrets are highly susceptible to canine distemper. This disease is considered nearly 100 percent fatal, with infected ferrets dying 3-3? weeks after initial exposure. Prevention of this disease should be an absolute priority, because treatment is usually futile. Kits should first be vaccinated against canine distemper at six to eight weeks of age (four to six weeks of age if kits are from unvaccinated mothers). A booster vaccination is essential two to three weeks later. Yearly boosters are recommended thereafter.

Human Influenza

Interestingly, ferrets are susceptible to human influenza ("flu") viruses. Signs may mimic those of canine distemper (listlessness, fever, loss of appetite, sneezing, nasal discharge, etc). Unlike distemper, ferrets usually recover from the flu, but bacterial infections may complicate the viral infection. Influenza may be fatal for young kits.

Aleutian Disease

Caused by a parvovirus, Aleutian Disease results in immunodepression and susceptibility to secondary infections.

Rabies

Like all mammals, ferrets are susceptible to rabies and capable of transmitting the virus to other mammals. A killed rabies vaccine should be given annually, starting at three months of age.

Bacterial diseases common to pet ferrets

• Abscesses Common in the upper mandibular area, normally caused by Staphylococcus spp. or Streptococcus spp. Treatment is drainage under anesthetic, followed by antibiotic treatment.
• Enteritis This is common in young ferrets and may be a cause of sudden death. It is noted by bloody diarrhea. A fecal culture should be examined if enteritis is suspected and the treatment based on the bacterial findings.
• Botulism Ferrets are susceptible to Clostridium botulinum type C. Paralysis is normally quickly followed by death. An annual toxoid vaccination can be given if deemed necessary for your area.

Skin Conditions

• Fleas Fleas are commonly picked up from dogs, cats and wild animals. Treatments accepted for dogs and cats are safe for ferrets.
• Ear Mites These parasites are common in ferrets and can be treated with ear drops containing gamma BHC or by two injections of Ivermec two weeks apart.
• Dental diseases can be a problem with ferrets, but are usually the result of improper diet. Diets of soft foods are not beneficial for ferrets. Hard diets help clean the teeth, reducing dental problems. Broken teeth should beremoved as soon as possible.

Ferret Hairball Facts

As the daylight hours increase or decrease (during the fall and spring) pet ferrets naturally begin shedding their fur. Like cats, these sleek little animals spend quite a bit of time grooming themselves, thus ingesting quite a bit of their own fur.

Due to the ingestion of fur, hairballs can be a significant problem for pet ferrets, even to the point of being fatal. The ingested fur can accumulate in the animal's intestine causing intestinal impaction and blockage. Symptoms of a blocked intestine include lack of bowel movements, decreased activity, lack of appetite and vomiting.

Since ferrets enjoy grooming themselves, it's important to be aware of the potential for hairballs. By regularly administering a laxative, hairballs can be prevented. There are several brands of petroleum-based laxatives considered safe for ferrets, including Ferret-lax, Laxatone and Cat lax. Usually the little furry animal enjoys the taste, so the laxative can be licked off a finger, a spoon or directly from the tube. During shedding season, a little bit should be given every day. Outside shedding season, the laxative should be administered weekly.

Note: Anal gland removal is of no benefit in reducing ferret odor, as the odor is secreted through the skin glands.